Curly Girl Method: How CGM works for your curls
Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a hair care philosophy that excludes sulfates, silicones, and heat to preserve curl structure and moisturize the hair. Start with a clarifying wash, switch to a sulfate-free shampoo bar, and use conditioner every time you wash.
The first time you hear about the Curly Girl Method, it may feel overwhelming. But the essence of CGM is actually simple: listen to what your hair really needs, not what conventional hair care has taught you it needs. CGM is not a strict diet for your hair. It is a philosophy of gentle care, moisture, and respect for the natural structure of your curls.
What is the Curly Girl Method?
The Curly Girl Method was created by hairstylist Lorraine Massey and introduced in the book Curly Girl: The Handbook (2001). The method is based on the idea that curls thrive without sulfates, silicones, and heat. The core principles of CGM:
- No sulfates - harsh surfactants such as SLS and SLES dry out the hair and irritate the scalp
- No silicones - create a coating that blocks moisture and require sulfates to be washed out
- Minimal heat - damages curl structure and increases porosity
- Sulfate-free cleansing - a gentle shampoo bar that cleanses without drying out the hair
- Moisture first - conditioner and hair masks are the backbone of the routine
How do you start CGM?
Step 1: Clarifying wash
Start with a clarifying wash to remove all silicone residue. This is the only time you use a stronger shampoo; after that, switch to CGM-approved products.
Step 2: Replace your shampoo
Choose a solid shampoo bar without sulfates that cleanses gently without disrupting the scalp’s natural balance.
Step 3: Conditioner is not optional
Within CGM, conditioner is mandatory. A conditioner bar for curly hair provides deep moisture and makes detangling easier without disrupting the curl structure.
Step 4: Understand your porosity
Your hair’s porosity and moisture balance determine which products work best for you. High porosity needs heavier, sealing products. Low porosity needs lighter formulas.
Step 5: Dry it properly
Diffuse or air-dry, and avoid rubbing your hair with a regular towel. Use a microfiber towel or an old T-shirt.
CGM in Sweden: what you need to consider
Hard water is common in many Swedish cities and can affect how CGM products work. Calcium and magnesium in the water settle on the hair and block moisture. One simple trick is to rinse with filtered water or use a clarifying shampoo once a month. Swedish winters with dry indoor air require more moisture in your routine, while summer’s high humidity can give curls extra definition naturally.
CGM is not a goal; it is an ongoing dialogue with your hair.
CGM checklist: ingredients to avoid
| Avoid | Why |
|---|---|
| SLS / SLES (sulfates) | Dry out the hair and irritate the scalp |
| Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane (silicones) | Block moisture and require sulfates to be washed out |
| Mineral oils / petrolatum | Create a coating and are difficult to wash out |
| Alcohol (denat., isopropyl) | Dries out the hair |
| High heat without protection | Damages the curl structure |
Learn more about building your complete routine in our comprehensive guide to curly hair.