Curly Girl Method: How CGM works for your curls

Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a hair care philosophy that excludes sulfates, silicones, and heat to preserve curl structure and moisturize the hair. Start with a clarifying wash, switch to a sulfate-free shampoo bar, and use conditioner every time you wash.

 

The first time you hear about the Curly Girl Method, it may feel overwhelming. But the essence of CGM is actually simple: listen to what your hair really needs, not what conventional hair care has taught you it needs. CGM is not a strict diet for your hair. It is a philosophy of gentle care, moisture, and respect for the natural structure of your curls.

What is the Curly Girl Method?

The Curly Girl Method was created by hairstylist Lorraine Massey and introduced in the book Curly Girl: The Handbook (2001). The method is based on the idea that curls thrive without sulfates, silicones, and heat. The core principles of CGM:

  • No sulfates - harsh surfactants such as SLS and SLES dry out the hair and irritate the scalp
  • No silicones - create a coating that blocks moisture and require sulfates to be washed out
  • Minimal heat - damages curl structure and increases porosity
  • Sulfate-free cleansing - a gentle shampoo bar that cleanses without drying out the hair
  • Moisture first - conditioner and hair masks are the backbone of the routine

How do you start CGM?

Step 1: Clarifying wash

Start with a clarifying wash to remove all silicone residue. This is the only time you use a stronger shampoo; after that, switch to CGM-approved products.

Step 2: Replace your shampoo

Choose a solid shampoo bar without sulfates that cleanses gently without disrupting the scalp’s natural balance.

Step 3: Conditioner is not optional

Within CGM, conditioner is mandatory. A conditioner bar for curly hair provides deep moisture and makes detangling easier without disrupting the curl structure.

Step 4: Understand your porosity

Your hair’s porosity and moisture balance determine which products work best for you. High porosity needs heavier, sealing products. Low porosity needs lighter formulas.

Step 5: Dry it properly

Diffuse or air-dry, and avoid rubbing your hair with a regular towel. Use a microfiber towel or an old T-shirt.

CGM in Sweden: what you need to consider

Hard water is common in many Swedish cities and can affect how CGM products work. Calcium and magnesium in the water settle on the hair and block moisture. One simple trick is to rinse with filtered water or use a clarifying shampoo once a month. Swedish winters with dry indoor air require more moisture in your routine, while summer’s high humidity can give curls extra definition naturally.

 

CGM is not a goal; it is an ongoing dialogue with your hair.

 

Dreamy Hair Silk Bundle

Dreamy Hair Silk Bundle

€92,95

DREAMY hair conditioner bar

DREAMY hair conditioner bar

€18,95

The Curl Defining Duo

The Curl Defining Duo

€32,95

Ocean Waves Shampoo bar

Ocean Waves Shampoo bar

€16,95

CGM checklist: ingredients to avoid

Avoid Why
SLS / SLES (sulfates) Dry out the hair and irritate the scalp
Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane (silicones) Block moisture and require sulfates to be washed out
Mineral oils / petrolatum Create a coating and are difficult to wash out
Alcohol (denat., isopropyl) Dries out the hair
High heat without protection Damages the curl structure

 

Learn more about building your complete routine in our comprehensive guide to curly hair.

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Vanliga frågor

Is co-wash suitable for all curl types? +
Co-wash works best for very dry, tightly curled hair without many styling products. For wavy hair or hair with styling products, a sulfate-free shampoo bar is usually a better option.
Why can a sulfate-free shampoo bar be better than co-washing? +
A sulfate-free shampoo bar thoroughly cleanses the scalp with mild surfactants without drying out the hair. Conditioner is not formulated for cleansing and can leave residue with frequent use, especially if you use styling products.
What is co-wash? +
Co-wash, or conditioner washing, means washing your hair solely with conditioner instead of shampoo. The method is popular among people with dry, curly hair because it avoids sulfates, which can dry out the hair.
What is the difference between DREAMY and a regular liquid conditioner? +
DREAMY is water-free and concentrated, which means it doesn’t need preservatives and is more environmentally friendly. The botanical oils are activated by the warmth of your palms, providing an even result without a pump or measuring.
Is DREAMY suitable for curly hair? +
Yes, but for curly hair, we recommend combining DREAMY with a shampoo bar suited to your curl type, such as the Ocean Waves Shampoo bar, for the best results.
Can I use DREAMY as a leave-in? +
Yes, a very small amount melted between your palms and distributed through the ends works excellently as a leave-in. Avoid the roots to prevent a heavy result at the scalp.
How long does it take to get used to a shampoo bar? +
Most people notice a difference after 2–4 washes. Hair accustomed to silicones may need a brief transition period of 1–2 weeks, during which it may feel heavier than usual. This is normal and will pass.
Can I use Ocean Waves if I have straight hair? +
Technically, yes, but the formula is optimized for wavy and curly hair. If you have straight hair, there are shampoo bar options that are better suited to your hair type.
Is Ocean Waves suitable for the Curly Girl Method? +
Yes, the shampoo bar is free from sulfates, silicones, and parabens and is CGM-compatible. Learn more about the method in our guide to the Curly Girl Method.
What is the difference between Ocean Waves and a regular shampoo bar? +
Ocean Waves is specifically formulated for wavy and curly hair, with a gentle cleansing action that does not disrupt the hair’s natural movement. A general shampoo bar may be too cleansing or too heavy for this hair type.
Is the Duo CGM-approved? +
Yes, both products are free from sulfates, silicones, and parabens and fully comply with the Curly Girl Method.
Is Curl Defining Duo suitable for all hair types? +
Yes, the duo is formulated for curl types 2 to 4. If you have very fine curls (type 2a–2b), you can use the conditioner bar sparingly and focus on the lengths.